Express press service

BHUBANESWAR: The colorful applique craftsmanship of PipIli – also called “Chandua” – is primarily considered a decorative element with its history rooted in traditions related to the Shri Jagannath temple. But Puri-based designer Ayushi Nanda adds the essence of this ancient craft to fabrics to create quirky, easy-to-wear Western garments through her PatchUp brand.

“When we talk about chandua, we mostly visualize colorful umbrellas, lanterns, canopies or fans, but never as a wearable piece of cloth. PatchUp was born out of the need to fill this gap. It promotes a diverse applique style that draws inspiration from Pipili applique work – dating back to the 10th century AD – as it involves hand sewing,” said the designer who collaborates with a group of traditional artisans to give his clothes a unique aesthetic. . And what makes the brand unique is that it aims for low fabric waste and promotes upcycling and eco-fashion.

Chandua is an art of creating fabric stories, she said, adding her style of applique on outfits and décor is created by patching one fabric onto another in certain shapes and colors based on various themes and designs. . The majority of his creations are inspired by nature and developed with the help of local artisans. From jumpsuits, jackets to dresses, tablecloths to cushions, shirts and skirts, her collection has it all and each piece is handmade with natural fabrics such as cotton or linen.

Growing up among artisans in Puri with her father Devi Nanda working in applique craftsmanship for three decades, she completed a degree in fashion design at the National Institute of Fashion Design (NIFT) in Bangalore. “My association with Chandua started at a young age and growing up I wanted to create a brand that believed in sustainable fashion and zero waste. PatchUp was built during the Covid lockdown with these two factors as its foundation,” said Ayushi who, in addition to giving traditional sconces a modern wearable approach, works with a private firm in Bangalore as a design researcher.

For PatchUp, she works directly with five artisans who are mostly from rural areas of Puri and trained to hand sew the patches with great intricacy. A believer in slow fashion, Ayushi said she spends more time with artisans and the design process so that each piece has a different story and experience. Continuing her explorations with craftsmanship, the designer believes that transforming traditional sconces into fashion will help her reach bigger markets at home and abroad.